Friday 18 November 2016

Robot Lawn Mower Perimeter Wire Tips & Tricks

Based on the last few years of robotic lawn mower ownership, I have a number of trips, tricks and tools for setting up and maintaining my robot lawn mower perimeter wire, as well as some recommended products.

A key point to remember is that while some of these parts are compatible (pegs and connectors, for example) many of them are not. At the same time, for some of the more basic installation and maintenance tasks (extending the perimeter wire, for example) regular off-the-shelf third party components can be used.

Robot Lawn Mower Perimeter Wire Installation

The first tip is to be prepared to move the wire around after it has been installed. For this reason, I recommend laying the wire on top of the grass, rather than digging it in.

Figure 1 : Poor Return Wire Installation
My first attempt at laying the perimeter wire wasn't exactly a triumph (see Figure 1).

Our lawn mower is the excellent Husqvarna 105 / Flymo 1200 / Gardena R40Li, and I followed the instructions to the letter.

What I forgot, however, is that something the size of a robot mower doesn't easily pass through a gap in a fence.

In addition, the design of the mower actually gives you a way out -- in the form of the return wire (the blue line in Figure 1). How it works is this: the mower leaves the charging point (on the right) and mows the lawn at random.

When it runs out of power, it will look for the return wire, and follow it back to the charging station.

The trouble is, when installed as above, the mower will (a) rarely make it into the top-left, and (b) once it's there, it will run out of power looking for the return wire, which it almost never finds.

There are a few solutions to this. The simplest is to to carry the mower to the top-left, and then remembering to get if back again once it runs out of juice.

However, the saving grace comes from the mower's design.
Figure 2 : Better Return Wire Installation

Reading through the instructions it transpires that there is a way to get the robot to follow the return wire at the start of a mowing session.

This led to the solution in Figure 2. The black line shows the new location of the return wire, designed to help the mower find its way home.

At the same time, once set up correctly, the mower will, occasionally, start from the end of the return wire.

One last note: since I had already installed the blue wire, I didn't want to uninstall it, so I added a box that enables me to switch between the two. I'm cautious like that.

To achieve this, I used some kit from the following section.

Lawn Mower Perimeter Wire Maintenance

Although tough, perimeter wires can be broken. Especially if, like me, you've scrimped a bit and bought some lesser grade wire to extend the length of that which has been provided.

Figure 3: These are not the connectors you are looking for...
Here's a first hint: buy the wire that is recommended by the manufacturer. It's just better.

But, it's not indestructible, and so it helps to have a few bits of kit that can help you when the worst happens and someone cuts through it with a spade, or a rodent chews through it.

Or, more likely, one of the little terminal blocks that you used to connect two bits together fails.

These are not good connectors. They are not waterproof, and, over time, will fail you. In my case, it took about 18 months to 2 years before the first one failed. I've now replaced all of them.

The replacement connectors are hugely expensive. Luckily, I've found a place where you can get a selection of waterproof wire connectors for use on the perimeter wire, all very inexpensive.

My absolute favourite, though, is the damp-proof wire splice connector available through Amazon, pictured here in Figure 4.
Figure 4 : Better Wire Connectors

Firstly, they're not 100% waterproof, but I've found that this doesn't really affect them too much. Certainly not as much as a simple terminal connector.

They're also reasonably priced, and because you have to crimp them, they do hold better than some of the other solutions.

Finally, they're a 2-way and not a 3-way connector, so are less bulky when you have to partially bury them. The 3M ones that came with the mower tend to stick up and risk being sliced on the lowest blade setting.

With the connectors sorted out, there's just one item left: what happens when the lights go red?

Perimeter Wire Emergency Kit

The most common thing that happens is that one of the plugs at the back of the charging station pops out, breaks, fails, or otherwise needs replacing.

Figure 5 : Spade Connectors
Sometimes, it's enough just to push it back in. However, on occasion, they actually need to be replaced. Luckily, they're just spade connectors, and easily found on Amazon, for very little money.

In Figure 5, there's an example. For connecting to the Husqvarna / Flymo / Gardena base station, you'll only need the bit that crimps to the wire (perimeter / guide wire) and the other end 'plugs into' the base station.

However, these connectors also form part of my Perimeter Wire Emergency Kit, and can be used with any of the popular makes.

It's worth mentioning that any robot lawn mower with a perimeter wire needs a way for you to locate a break in the wire.

Typically, this requires connecting a 'flying wire' to the base unit (charging station) and then connecting it at various points around the perimeter wire to see where the break occurs.

But this is very troublesome if you need to go around breaking the wire and connecting a 3-way block to the perimeter wire before plugging in the flying wire. 

Figure 6 : Self Stripping Connector
Much easier is to use the self stripping connector type, as shown in Figure 6.

All you need to do with these is place them around the perimeter wire (with flying wire connected) and gently press the cover closed just enough to make the connection, but not enough to seal the connector.

If you press too far, don't panic, just leave it where it is.

These connectors are so cheap that you can afford to leave them in place -- and if you mark where they are, the next time you need to investigate a break, you just need to march up with your spade connector on the end of the flying lead, and plug it in!

One last tip: the flying wire need not be the best quality, but is must be long enough to run to the most distant point on your perimeter cable, as measured from the charging station.

So, those are the current robot lawn mower perimeter wire tips and tricks, from a few years of robotic lawn mower ownership. Feel free to add your own solutions in the comments below!

17 comments:

  1. Nice post man but I've got a question.

    I know you said it's better to lay the wire down instead of burying, and I understand why, but are you not better burying it eventually?

    Wouldn't it be more protected this way? so I wouldn't have to fix it as often?

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    1. So, I tried both.

      In the front, I buried it (because of invasions from the neighbour's big clumsy dog) and in the back, it was just laid on top of the grass.

      After one season, I had to dig up the front one to fix a break, and it was a very painful experience. I'm not saying who, but someone cut through it whilst 'doing the edges'.

      Out back, after two seasons, I had a break (my own fault, I had used an incorrect joining method for the wire; sugar cube rather than water-protected connector) and found that although the wire was no longer visible, it was easier to get down to the wire through the matted grass than through 'real' earth.

      Really, the only time you have to fix the wire is if (a) someone cuts it, or (b) your own work-personship fails.

      The chance of a 'natural' break occurring on what is very thick wire is pretty minimal, and unless you put it in a spade depth down (assuming your mower will even pick that up!) I see no real benefit in burying over natural embedding.

      However, I've an open mind on this, so if someone has a different experience to share, let's hear it!

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  2. Hi There, How do you suspend the boundary wire at a sufficient height above the ground that the lawnmower does not cut it? The pegs that come with my Flymo R1200 do not seem long enough. As a trial run, I mapped out a 3 square metre area putting the boundary wire above the area and it immediately ran over it and cut it. But what you are saying makes a lot of sense to me as I think I'll need a few attempts to get the robot mower working effectively. I might need to do my front and back garden separately (as in the lift the mower round) as I have a tarmacked path between them (no grass) ....but that's another post. Thank you.

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    1. Hi,

      Erm, bury the wire? Actually, it will self-bury over time: I just pegged mine to the surface which proved to be low enough, even on minimum cutting height. Few months later, it had disappeared.

      The pegs and wire do have to be flush with the soil, though, or the blade will find them!

      As for the other issue, tarmac is a bit of a problem unless you're willing/able to rout a channel in it to take the guide wire. I've heard of these mowers happily running across tiled areas (and even fine gravel, but not tried either), following the guide wire to a remote location to start cutting, so thta may still be an option for you.

      Stay safe & well, everyone!

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  3. Thanks for the post with some useful information about locating the guide wire and connectors to use.

    My own manufacturer recommends using the flying wire technique to locate breaks, but there is a far easier way using a wire tracer.

    This is a two part unit comprising signal generator and detector available from Amazon for about £20.

    Detatch the perimeter and guide wires from the base station.

    Connect the signal generator to the guide wire, then test both perimeter wires for a signal.

    The perimeter wire with no signal indicates the half of the perimeter wire where the break is.

    If there is no signal from either perimeter wires, then the break is in the guide wire.

    Connect the signal generator to the wire with the break, then trace the signal along the wire until the signal stops. That is where your break is.

    Expose broken wire and fix. Job done in 20 minutes and at less cost. (Circa £50 for more perimeter wire and connectors for my garden).

    I believe you can do a similar trace using an AM radio, but I only have a DAB and FM radio. :-(

    Hope that helps.

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    1. I like the tip about the AM radio. I shall try this later on - I have an old one somewhere with earphones. Also, I wonder if a metal detector changes its tone when there is a live cable running underneath its sensor?

      Just a thought... I'm not convinced that when there is a break there is any current flowing through the wire to be able to detect it - even with a strong signal generator.

      But, my knowledge of these things is perhaps not deep enough to be able to work out why it should work :-/

      Stay Safe & Well, everyone!

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  4. Do you have to stick with OEM cable or can you use a generic cable. I have just bought a mcculloch robomower which will be delivered tomorrow. I have two separate areas to cut both at least 1000 as metres so will need additional cable.

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  5. Sorry this question my post twice. I'm looking into getting one of these and having trouble investing in the perimeter wire. Is it something that can be attached to a fence? Or is it something that the robot has to physically run over as opposed to running near the wire ( but not touch. Also apprx how much will I need to spend to get a decent one ( not top of the line) but reliable etc. My lawn is fairly flat and maybe 1/4 acre I think.

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    1. Hi! The wire is underground: it actually starts off as just placed on the grass, and held in place with pegs, but quickly (i.e. less than a few weeks) sinks out of sight.

      The mower runs over the wire - different brands run over to different extents - as well as 'bouncing off' other objects, including fences. However, I've had a few issues with the deterioration of bumpers over time, and have had to replace them, so I don't recommend relying on the robot bouncing off walls as a way to enclose it.

      As for how much to spend, all I can do is report that I have a R40Li which is the same as the Flymo 1200R which costs around £400 (in 2021), and a POWXG6305 from PowerPlus which cost around half that.

      The Flymo has done a good few years' service and works well with few faults (documented here - have a click around!), while the Power Plus has done a few weeks and has worked well, once set up properly, but needs a flat lawn, and is much less flexible in terms of when, where, and what pattern it cuts in.

      Let me know if you have a specific model in mind!

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  6. After initial installation, can the perimeter wire be altered for the planting of trees and plants as the garden topography changes with time?

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    1. Hi! The simple answer is 'yes'. However, you will need to dig down a little as the overgrowing causes the wire to sink.

      Having said that, I've just managed to reroute some of the above perimeter to allow planting and didn't get too dirty, even after four or five years.

      All the best!

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  7. Hi, thanks for the article. My question is not quite the same issue but related ... how would you set up a temporary restricted area on a lawn say to protect as area with spring bulbs such as daffodils? Do you know if anyone has a switching device that can redirect to flow through a structured perimeter wire layout so areas can be restricted or opened up on demand. I cannot see that 'zoning' or 'area sectioning' of lawns cannot do this.

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    1. Hi! All you'd need is a simple multi-way switch, in a waterproof box, possibly on a stake to keep it from being mowed over, that sent current around a loop rather than (or as well as) around the perimeter.

      Failing that, you could construct two loops of wire, both originating and terminating at the ground station, and switch between them using a three or multi-way switch.

      The advantage of the second option is that you only need to maintain the 'switchboard' in the same place as the ground station, and keep it out of the loop, so to speak.

      Of course, you will also use double the perimeter cable in the process!

      Let me know how you get on...

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  8. We have pocket gophers that will chew thru wires, is there a solution?

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    1. Hi! Thanks for the question: it's a great one. The only possible solution I can think of is to use a flexible tube as a kind of protection around the wire. What I'm thinking of are those ribbed cable tubes that are sometimes used to protect low voltage electrical cables.

      However, you would need to keep them quite close to the surface so that the mower can still detect them. I've just installed a low-end PowerPlus robot mower, so I'll see if I can dig in a bit of the perimeter cable, in a tube, as a test...

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  9. For complex or larger lawns I accidentally bought the right model Husqvarna 430xh. It allows for 2 separate guide wires and the 450x has 3. Each guide wire can be a separate zone. For us, the right lawn is 2.5 times larger than the lawn to the left. We made these zones 1 and 2, and both have narrow passages to their respective zones and must each cross over a paver side walk. We can set the mower to spend say 35% on the smaller zone and 65% on the larger zone.

    I made the mistake of buying the medium lawn installation kit and only had enough boundary and guide wire to do the small zone. I simply bought 14 AWG twisted pair insulated outdoor wire at Lowes for the other zone and works fine. Some sights say use solid core, but the wire that came with he Husqvarna was twisted pair.

    I also agree that burying it isn't really the best option. When you first get the mower you want it on the surface so you can adjust coverage - I live in Florida and in the summer the grass can grow 4-7" in 7-10 days, so you want to run your mower with the wire on the surface to see how well it covers. Installation is not as simple as they make it sound in July heat, especially if you are going to go back and bury the wire after good coverage. If you believe you know 18 months later where the wires are buried then you are a savant or have OCD to the max.

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  10. One last thing, IF YOU DO WANT TO BURY IT and never worry about breakage you can do what my neighbor did. He used 1/2" grey conduit PVC, ran the wire through 12' piece, using connector sleeves between each piece of pipe, and by using elbows, and the occasional heat gun for weird angles he buried his perimeter & guide wire in a way that it will never get broken, and someone digging will hit the conduit before breaking the wire. PVC conduit is relatively cheap and I kind of wish I had done that

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